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A flavor you adore?
Vanilla! That of a puff pastry garnished with a real custard filling! If I have one poignant flashback, that’s it. I had a grandmother who baked a lot, a mother who cooks as well… I grew up with the perfumes and flavors of sweets.
Your favorite recipe?
A vanilla custard. Milk beaten rapidly with a few eggs and sugar, thickened while slow boiling with a little starch. Imake it for my kids. The kitchen is a real bubbly place with them. In addition to cooking intuitively – I like to open my fridge and improvise, mostly savory dishes –, I let the pastry chefs make the pastry. I really admire their technical skills, preparations rigorously elaborated, and the result which is often magical. Be it a pineapple religieuse, a Solférino – a dessert from the North of France, – or simply a Paris- Brest, relishing a pastry is really an exceptional moment for me.
A particular sweet dish from your childhood that brings back memories?
A brown sugar tart. Yes, I’m from the North! My grandmother made her pastry crust very thin, halfcooked, only slightly crispy. Inside, the brown sugar was melted like, for example, the center of a chocolate fondant just barely cooked. When I close my eyes, the memory of its smell comes back. Even as far as visualizing my grandmother’s kitchen… not only the room, but also the way she moved around in it.
A guilty pleasure to share?
The small waffles from Lille, when they are very fresh. They are like little crepes with vanilla cream on the inside. It’s a real sin, and I know that if I share one with someone, I’ll also have a second… A piece of chocolate is a sin as well, magic, but a more solitary one.
If you were a dessert?
A refreshing sorbet: strawberry, raspberry or wild strawberry. It’s a dessert that is good for digestion while bringing a wonderful sweet flavor to the end of the meal, a moment when one has many different sensations in one’s mouth… it tickles a little.
From "Desserts" Autumn/Winter n°06
After passing through the kitchens of Alain Ducasse, the laboratories of Ladurée, without forgetting the Ritz, Claire Heitlzer finally opens her workshop and her online shop at the end of October! Under the name «Claire & Producteurs», this concept will defend the values dear to the Alsatian leader: eco-responsibility and gluttony.
Jeffrey Cagnes will open the doors of his own shop on 21 September in Paris (17'). The opportunity to discover the universe and the creativity of the one who has made his ranges in the prestigious Maison Stohrer, the oldest pastry shop in Paris!
The Omnivore Fall Culinary Festival will take place from 11 to 13 September at the Parc Floral in Paris and will feature pastry. You will meet among others Jade and Jacques Génin, Nina Métayer, Michaël Bartocetti, Christophe Michalak or François Josse!
La Maison Pierre Hermé recrute deux chocolatiers en CDI au sein de son établissement situé à Wittenheim en Alsace. Les postes sont à pourvoir immédiatement. Vos candidatures à l’adresse suivante : email@example.com
Le Chardon Bleu – Olivier Buisson – recrute un btm pâtissier et une mention complémentaire en pâtisserie. Toutes les informations ici.