TASTY CONFESSIONSAll articles
The insatiable multi-starred chef now roasts cocoa and coffee. He explains us why.
As a frequent traveller, do you usually take a tasty box with you?
I do not travel with anything. Recently, I was initiated to vegetarian food in a Kyoto temple and the tasting of silky tofu flavours on a fine sesame purée was a true privilege in this contemplative atmosphere. Tasting exceptional foods is my wealth and I am lucky enough to do it… around the world.
You started off at Gaston Lenôtre to become a pastry chef?
Yes, absolutely, but I quickly switched to being a chef. Incidentally, I met Pierre Hermé – who was then 14 ears old – and I knew from the start that he would be better than me when it came to pastry!
Sweet versus savoury?
The key word is de-li-cious. Be it sweet or savoury, the bite you take has to enchant the palate.
Your mascot flavour?
Bitterness. And, in a more general way, savours with a certain fullness.
A childhood souvenir?
I was raised in the South of the Landes. My bedroom was just above my grandmother's kitchen. Scents came before taste. I relished the fragrances that arose from the kitchen as of 11.30 in the morning. My DNA for taste is in the South, from the Atlantic to the south-West Mediterranean, where it remains anchored.
A favourite dessert?
Choux à la crème. The contrast between the perfect baking of the choux pastry and the mellowness of the cream delights me. I hate the crisp wafer on the choux pastry. It usually serves an aspect that is too perfect, which becomes a model, and does not add anything to the textures that I love. Pastry should have its snags, it should be telling the story of the craftsman behind it and show a human character. I would rather have less choice, but be sure every cake has been made on the day.
A sweet recipe?
You will soon learn about it…
What would you do preferably at teatime?
Take a break: hot chocolate, brioche and grated chocolate of my own.
If you were a sweet?
A superb praline.
A sin to be shared?
The love of good food is not a sin any more. Sin, to a chef or a pastry chef, would consist in moving away from authentic flavours. The fact that anyone can express himself around the world, perceive and share the produces of his own land in a different way, is a true asset of this planet.
From magazine "Desserts" Spring - Summer n°11
A giant cake was made in front of the Opera Garnier in Paris on Sunday 16 May. A dozen pastry chefs set about making an opera house 30 metres long. This achievement earned them the Guinness Book of Records.
The summer fruit season begins, especially strawberry and rhubarb! Find inspiration to sublimate fruit in the «recipes» section
Christophe Michalak revisits for the Maison du Chocolat la Sachertorte. A regressive and gourmet creation!
La maison Ducobu, en Belgique, recrute sur différents postes. Toutes les informations ici.
Pierre Hubert, installé à Dijon, recherche un Chocolatier. Toutes les informations ici.