Nicolas Bernardé and Mauricette Anesa 

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INTRODUCTION

Honey and bees In the department of Haute-Marne, in France, the apiary named ‘Rucher du Grand Jardin’ produces exceptional honeys in the Champagne plains. The jars travel to La Garenne-Colombes, where Nicolas Bernardé, Best Craftsman of France (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) and one of the Relais desserts pastry chefs, waits for them each year impatiently.

From factory to beehives 

Everything started almost by chance. Before becoming a beekeeper, Mauricette Anesa worked in a factory. Her husband owned some hives for leisure, just by passion. She helped him, and step by step, she became passionate too. So, in 2005, Mauricette took the step, left her work, and made beekeeping its unique job. 

The first years, to sell their production, the couple participated in the locals’ fairs, shows, markets and each event “where people pass”. It is during the Pascal Caffet Trophy, in Troyes, that Nicolas Bernardé tasted their honeys for the first time. He promised: “When I’ll have my shop, I’ll buy your honeys. ” 

“Well, he kept its promise!”, she said cheerfully. 

The flowers reign 

At the Rucher du Grand Jardin, there is a varied production. Mauricette proposes honey from all spring and summer flowers, but also buckwheat honey – powerful, dark, almost malty – and linden honey, with fresh and minty notes. 

As for the acacia tree, it is a precious exception: highly coveted, but unfortunately it is difficult to harvest in the plains of Champagne. “Below ten degrees, bees hardly forage, and sometimes, when they leave the hive, there are no longer any acacia flowers, as they are very early.”, explains Nicolas. The last thing we need is frost! When Mauricette succeeds in producing some, she always keeps a part of it for Nicolas. 

Say hello to the bees 

“A bee produces only 40 to 50 grams of honey in its entire life.” This figure is often mentioned by the pastry chef, who likes to remind people what each jar represents. In his speech, you can feel how much the beekeeper inspired him with her unique respect for bees: “When I visit Mauricette, first of all, she invites me to say hello to the bees. We put our hands on the hives and talk to them: “Hello, I’m Nicolas and I’m coming to take your honey. Thank you, pretty honeybees, you’re doing a remarkable job.” If treated well, they are not aggressive.” He trusts Mauricette, and he never got stung. 

Since this product is rare, the beekeeper has long refused to transport it by carriers: Nicolas made the trip by car in order to bring back several hundred kilos. 

“The trip was worth it, because all the love she gives to her bees is found in the cakes we make.”, said the pastry chef. 

Madeleine of La Garenne 

Since their first meeting, Nicolas Bernardé has never stopped buying honey from the Rucher du Grand Jardin. This beautiful example shows the values of loyalty, mutual support and cooperation that are so important to the Relais Dessert association. Years after the start of their relationship, orders from Nicolas are still very important to Mauricette, and the pastry chef knows it. 

At the other end of the chain, in La Garenne-Colombes patisserie, Mauricette’s honeys have two different uses: some are sold in jars, while others are added to recipes – for example, honey nougat or madeleines. 

Transmission 

Nowadays, Mauricette is retired. Her son Stéphane now takes care of the bees and hives every day. Attached to her hives, she continues to help him more than ever. Honeys can be ordered directly by phone and are shipped throughout France. They are also available in some shops in Chaumont. 

Stéphane Descharmes 

Le Rucher du Grand Jardin Rue du lavoir 52700 Signéville (France) Phone: +33 6 71 18 57 90 

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