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If I offer you a chocolate bar?
I’ll eat it! A piece? No, the whole bar. I am not reasonable at all. That’s the whole problem… And I love chocolate!
I heard you like wine?
Yes! And pairing it with chocolate is fantastic! Sauternes also goes very well with desserts.
A particular sweet dish from your childhood that brings back memories?
First of all the barquette aux marrons, a dessert which doesn’t exist anymore. It has completely disappeared! A shortcrust pastry garnished on one side with chestnut cream, on the other side, coffee. The blend was incredible. There was also the puits d’amour, a puff pastry filled with vanilla cream, and a box of Mont Blanc Chocolates. When I was a child, my favorite meal was liver pâté on toast with pickles and on top and for dessert, a box of Mont Blanc Chocolates!
The place indulgence has in your life?
I am indulgent, but also a food lover. Let’s see, something very simple, like a very good piece of bread with salted butter, maybe a piece of cheese, cold cuts, it’s a meal fit for a king.
Tell us a little more about chocolate…
I am going to astonish you, but I think I only really like Belgian milk chocolate (Editor’s Note: his mother was Belgian). Everything goes back to childhood, we forget, then it comes back to us. I spend my time running into my ghost… My job is to analyze feelings…
Your favorite dessert?
The Napoleon. Not the one with a few hard sheets of pastry garnished with strawberries. No, the one with crème pâtissière. A dietetic dessert is not a dessert, there is no pleasure. So, if I eat a Paris-Brest, I eat a real Paris-Brest!
What impresses you about pastry chefs?
It’s their love of a job well done. In these times when manual work is underestimated, there is a kind of condescension regarding people who decide to go into these professions. Yet, they require attention at all times, a tremendous know-how, a colossal amount of work. They are genuine creators, real artists who create things, sensations and help bring out a certain number of visions, emotions and feelings.
What indulgent moment do you prefer?
There is not really a moment. I don’t plan anything… or rather I plan on enjoying myself whenever possible.
A sin to share?
The only sin I know is inhumanity.
If you were a dessert?
(laughs) I would be a chocolate, because I actually only like that. Chocolate pure, without strawberries, spices, anything. Just chocolate!
From "Desserts" Spring/Summer n°09
After passing through the kitchens of Alain Ducasse, the laboratories of Ladurée, without forgetting the Ritz, Claire Heitlzer finally opens her workshop and her online shop at the end of October! Under the name «Claire & Producteurs», this concept will defend the values dear to the Alsatian leader: eco-responsibility and gluttony.
Jeffrey Cagnes will open the doors of his own shop on 21 September in Paris (17'). The opportunity to discover the universe and the creativity of the one who has made his ranges in the prestigious Maison Stohrer, the oldest pastry shop in Paris!
The Omnivore Fall Culinary Festival will take place from 11 to 13 September at the Parc Floral in Paris and will feature pastry. You will meet among others Jade and Jacques Génin, Nina Métayer, Michaël Bartocetti, Christophe Michalak or François Josse!
La Maison Pierre Hermé recrute deux chocolatiers en CDI au sein de son établissement situé à Wittenheim en Alsace. Les postes sont à pourvoir immédiatement. Vos candidatures à l’adresse suivante : firstname.lastname@example.org
Le Chardon Bleu – Olivier Buisson – recrute un btm pâtissier et une mention complémentaire en pâtisserie. Toutes les informations ici.